Textiles, Rugs, Quilts, and Fashion

Tennessee needlework Family Register sampler, worked 1830 by Elizabeth M. Henley at the Knoxville Female Academy. Elizabeth Henley, granddaughter of Revolutionary War hero Col. David Henley, married Barclay McGhee, grandson of Knoxville settler and politician Col. Charles McClung. Silk on linen sampler with wide floral border, partially unfinished, with zig zag design satin stitch edging in contrasting light and dark threads, enclosing three rows of cross-stitched alphabet, the date 1830 and a row of numbers, over a bud and heart-with-cross motif band, over two verses: "Teach me to feel another's woe/To hide the fault I see/that Mercy to others show /that mercy show to me" and "When age shall steal on me and youth is no more/and the moralist Time shakes his glass at my door/What charm in lost beauty or wealth shall find/my treasure my wealth is a sweet peace of mind". Below the side by side verses is Elizabeth M. Henley's signature and a family register with names and birth dates of her father, Arthur H. Henley, born Nov. 15, 1782; mother Ann E. Henley born Sept. 29, 1798, and siblings and/or possibly cousins: Sally H. Henley, born Feb. 20, 1816; David Henley, born Oct. 5, 1816; Mary K. Henley born Nov. 16, 1820; Alexander S. Henley born Nov. 15, 1822; and Mildred W. Henley (no birth date stated). Housed under glass in an early 20th century stained molded wood frame. 17 1/2" H x 21 3/4" W sight; 19 1/2" H x 23 3/4" W framed. Note: This sampler has been documented by the Tennessee Sampler Survey ( a copy of this report will accompany the sampler). Elizabeth Henley was born 1819 in Monroe County, Tennesssee to Arthur and Ann Henley. Her grandfather on her father's side, David Henley, was a Continental Army officer during the American Revolutionary War, who served as George Washington's intelligence chief and prisoner of war commandant. He later served as the Agent for the United States War Department for the Southwest Territory (later Tennessee) in the 1790s. Elizabeth's name appears in the Knoxville Female Academy catalog for 1831 along with that of her sister Mary, and may have been worked while she was attending this school in Knox County, or at the Bolivar Academy in Madisonville, Monroe Co. as it bears a resemblence to other samplers made there at that time, according to the Tennessee Sampler Survey. Sadly, Elizabeth did not live long enough to reach the old age to which she alluded in her verse. She married Barclay McGhee in 1843 and died the following year at the age of 25, twelve days after the birth of their daughter. Barclay McGhee was the son of John Charles McGhee and Elizabeth Betsy Jones McClung McGhee (daughter of Knoxville settler and surveyor Colonel Charles McClung (1761-1835); he also was known as the master of land his family owned on the prehistoric Native American site in Monroe County called Toqua. Three years after Elizabeth's death, Barclay married her sister Mary (whose name appears on the sampler). In 1856, at the age of 32, Barclay was found dead in a Chattanooga hotel room with a slit throat! Period accounts leave it unclear as to whether his wounds were self inflicted or the result of a deadly feud with a neighbor. Provenance: The Living Estate of Elizabeth Johnston Davidson Frierson, Knoxville, TN. CONDITION: Sampler has not been fully removed from frame but appears glued to cardboard backing. Overall discoloration to ground and fading to thread. Two significant areas of staining, 2" diameter center right and 4" diameter center left, other scattered minor spots of darker discoloration throughout. No apparent holes or significant losses, although the names Alexander and Mildred appear to have possibly been reinforced with darker thread or added later. [See more photos →]

Wilson County, Tennessee pictorial needlework sampler dated 1838, made by Mary Saunders Martin (1825-1881). Rare all-pictorial sampler featuring a rose border, enclosing a fruit basket, butterflies, and multiple birds, including parrots, a stork, and peacock, flanking a central male figure. Roosters, three dogs, and a rabbit are also depicted. Signed and dated "Miss Mary Martin 1838" lower center. Float mounted under glass atop an ivory mat in a molded wood frame. 16 1/2" x 16 3/4" sight; 22" x 22 1/2" framed. Note: According to the Tennessee Sampler Survey, which documented this sampler, Mary Saunders Martin (1825-1881) was born to George Winchester Martin, a tanner, and Judith Bradley of Lebanon, Wilson County, Tennessee. Mary wed William Pitt Hickerson, a lawyer, in 1843. The couple moved to Manchester, Coffee Co., where they had five children. Mary died in 1881 and her husband in 1882. Both are buried in the Hickerson-Wooten Cemetery in Manchester, Coffee County. It is possible that Mary stitched this sampler at the Campbell Female Academy in Lebanon under the tutelage of Harriet Abbe and Sophronia Abbe Kilbourn. A copy of the Tennessee Sampler Survey report for this sampler will be made available to the winning bidder. Note: Mary's daughter, Frances (Fanny) Hickerson Wooton (or Wooten), made the Crazy Quilt in lot 593 in this auction, and 3 other quilts from this family are also included in this auction. See lots #593 and 594. CONDITION: Hole, 2 1/2" x 1", upper left between floral border and edge. Two small holes with staining upper left, each approximately 1/4". 3/4" hole near center, affecting rabbit's tail and the ground beneath stitcher's name. Hole, 1 1/2" at lower left edge. Two holes, 1/2" diameter, upper right border. Three stains, upper right edge, largest 2". A few scattered smaller stains and ground losses. Some edge fraying and small losses at edges. [See more photos →]

Tennessee crazy quilt, circa 1875, attributed to Fanny Hickerson Wooton (also spelled Wooten, 1844-1927) of Coffee County and/or her mother, Mary Saunders Martin Hickerson (1825-1881, whose sampler is also in this auction). Hand stitched quilt comprised of a dark blue velvet border with gold stitching to blue cotton backing, enclosing nine squares of silk, velvet, and cotton pieces, embellished with brightly colored thread (including some metallic thread) in various designs of flowers and animals including elephant, horse, pigs, rabbit, birds, owl, fish, and salamander; also stitched with depictions of numerous items common in households of the period including an Eastlake settee, cruet set, bottle, 2 plows, lawn chair, coffee pot, horse shoe, anchor, and rifle. 81" H x 75" W. Note: The quilt is said to have been made for a bride in the family (possibly Fanny Hickerson Wooton's daughter, Sarah Lucille Wooten Chumley (1867-1946)) and to have been stitched showing items given to the couple as wedding presents. It descended in the Chumley family and was purchased from a family member by the consignor. The presence of the initial "M" embroidered near the center of the quilt suggests Mary Saunders Martin Hickerson may have had a hand in its creation. Also included with this quilt is a strip of unfinished crazy quilt squares from the same family, lacking embroidery or backing, 81" x 90", with frayed threads and small losses and stains. See related quilts and sampler in this auction, lots #592 and 594. CONDITION: Center square, handpainted silk, has disintegrated. Remnants retained. The remained of the quilt is in overall good condition with some fraying to a few dark red, dark taupe, green and black silks. One 3" area of black silk has nearly disintegrated (near 1 pig), and the adjacent striped silk has a 4" area of staining. Scattered light staining to back including a 4" oval where backing material has lost its color. Other scattered light stains, up to 3". An L shaped slit to back fabric, 3" x 3". [See more photos →]

Three (3) Tennessee Quilts. 1st item: Middle TN hand stitched crazy quilt circa 1900, Coffee County, attributed to Fanny Hickerson Wooten (also spelled Wooton, 1844-1927). Wool and gabardine crazy quilt with brown cotton backing; green border with tan corner blocks and fuschia stitching, enclosing a field with multiple pieces of fabric in various colors and patterns, embellished with multi-colored stitching and embroidered flowers and fauna including dasies, lilies of the valley, and ferns. Snowflake, cross, and fence designs are also included. Center square is embroidered “For John From Mammy”. 84 1/2″ H x 81″ W. Note: Fanny Hickerson Wooton’s grandson was named John Chumley (1887-1965). 2nd item: Summer weight silk log cabin pattern quilt with strips of solid (primarily black) and printed silk including plaid, striped and damask patterns. Brown calico backing. 76 1/2″ H x 70 1/2″ W. 3rd item: Cotton pieced quilt top with triangular pieces in multicolored prints comprising 42 squares enclosed in a green border. 77″ H x 89″ W. See related quilts and sampler in this auction, lot #592 and 593. Provenance: All quilts descended in the Chumley family and were purchased by the consignor from a member of the Chumley family. CONDITION: 1st item: 6″ stain to back,other scattered small stains to back; scattered stains to front, including a dark 1″ stain in a yellow block and instances of dark fabrics bleeding into pink/fuschia fabrics from folding. Scattered small holes to wool fabrics. Several spots of loss to stitching at edges. Some flower “petals” need restitching to ground. 2nd item: Considerable losses and fraying to silk pieces. 3 squares use velvet strips indicating possible early repairs. 3/4″ hole to brown calico backing. 3rd item: Lacks binding. Fading to green cotton, especially at edges but also affecting some center blocks, 2 holes 1″ diameter, multiple small scattered stains. [See more photos →]

Pair of East Tennessee twin sized pieced and appliqued quilts, NC lily pattern varient in colors of blue and green with blue calico print on a cream or white ground. Finely quilted all over teacup pattern with blue triangle border. Both made circa 1930's by Annie Mary "Mace" Russell, wife of Hugh McClung Johnston. Provenance label en verso. Although a pair, one quilt measures slightly larger than the other. 87 3/4" H x 58 1/4" W and 91 1/4" H x 62 1/4" W. Provenance: The Living Estate of Elizabeth Johnston Davidson Frierson, Knoxville, TN. CONDITION: One quilt slight larger than the other. Larger quilt with some yellowing, scattered stains and light wear. Smaller quilt with a couple of areas of staining, light wear. [See more photos →]

East Tennesee, Knox County appliqued and pieced quilt, NC lily pattern variant in colors of peach, coral, and light green on a cream ground. Finely quilted all over diamond pattern, with a peach, coral, and light green border. Made circa 1940 by Annie Mary "Mace" Russell, wife of Hugh McClung Johnston. Provenance label en verso. 98" H x 80" W. Provenance: The Living Estate of Elizabeth Johnston Davidson Frierson, Knoxville, TN. CONDITION: Overall very good condition with minor errant marks. [See more photos →]

1 Coverlet and 3 quilts, including a Tennessee Princess Feather quilt and 2 matching Log Cabin quilts. 1st item: 19th century handmade Tennessee Princess Feather pattern pieced quilt; red, orange and green feathers, leaves and flowers on an ivory quilted background with teal binding. 91" x 71". 2nd item: Red, white and blue overshot geometric pattern coverlet in two pieces, two part construction, 83" x 66". Coverlet was woven in Sevier County circa 1850 and handed down in the McMahan family. 3rd and 4th items: Pair of hand sewn and pieced calico log cabin pattern quilts in colors of blue, red, pink, white and olive; blue binding. Each quilt approximately 75" square. All items attibuted to Tennessee, late 19th/early 20th century. CONDITION: 1st item: Quilt with scattered stains, largest area of staining near lower corner, 6"; a couple of small areas of loss up to 1/3", light fading and grime; overall good condition. 2nd item- Coverlet in very good condition. 3rd and 4th items: Scattered light stains to both; one with a 10" x 4" cluster of stains and some wear losses to one of the brown/tan fabrics used near edge. [See more photos →]

Pieced and appliqued cotton quilt, oak leaf pattern consisting of four quadrants of four large red oak leaf flowers with calico green centers, divided by a red grid and framed with wide red border. 74 1/2" H x 78 3/4" W. Mid-Atlantic or Southern, early 20th century. Provenance: The Estate of Ellen Johnson, Crossville, TN. CONDITION: Light surface grime. Water stain outer edge near center 20" H x 13" W. Scattered loose threads to quilting. White borders uneven. [See more photos →]

Windmill Blades pattern pieced quilt, wool, silk and cotton; 25 blocks in black, red, green, cream, blue, rose, purple and gold fabrics with teal patterned cotton back. 82" x 86". New England, early 20th century. Provenance: A private Alabama collection. CONDITION: Fraying at four corners. Some losses from wear and insect damage. [See more photos →]

Three (3) schoolgirl needlework samplers, American or English, all framed under glass. 1st item: Folky "Adam and Eve" sampler in cross stitch, wool on linen, with a flower/berry border and various pictorial motifs surrounding Adam, Eve, and the Tree of the Knowledge of Good and Evil, signed Ellen Williams, age 8 and dated 1850. Float mounted on a beige background in a wood frame. Sight – 16 1/2" H x 9" W. Framed – 20" H x 11 1/2" W. 2nd item: Alphabetical and numerical sampler in cross and eyelet stitch, silk on linen, with pictorial motifs and family initials at bottom row; signed by Mary Upton and dated January 29th 1800, age 7. Housed in a wooden frame with gilt rabbet edge. Sight – 10" H x 9" W. Framed – 12 1/2" H x 11 1/2" W. 3rd item: Alphabetical and numerical sampler with geometric bands at top in cross stitch and zig zag stitch, silk on linen, signed by Mary Feild – possible misspelling of Mary Field – and dated 1825. Housed in a wooden frame with silver gilt rabbet edge. Sight – 17" H x 11" W. Framed – 19" H x 13" W. Provenance: private collection, acquired many years ago in Georgia. CONDITION: 1st item: Later framing; small dark stains and minor losses to outermost edges, likely from where sampler was originally nailed or tacked into a frame; light spots indicate some possible thread loss to leaves/berries of border; staining or thread bleed to signature area; light toning and fading. Some tears to mat. 2nd item: Even toning and fading. Not removed from frame. 3rd item: Even toning and fading. Sampler is not glued down. [See more photos →]

Vertical wool tapestry depicting large lush trees and vegetation framing bridge in waterscape at lower section and castle and mountain range at center. Main border woven with figures, swags and scrollwork. Tapestry and main border woven in shades of green, blue, gold, red and brown. Two newer narrow outer borders of cream and blue and newer linen backing with rings for display. 123 3/4" x 58" (10'3" x 4'8"). Flemish, late 18th century. Provenance: The Estate of Judith E. Crosland, Knoxville, TN. CONDITION: Some fading, patches, wear and repairs throughout. Note areas to right of bridge, background above mountain range, inner diaper border, and blue patches to main border. Please examine photos. [See more photos →]

Continental wool tapestry sewn in sections, upper left and right depicting queen with peacock in landscape setting and male figure wearing animal cloak, holding staff and with ladder and bear. Lower two-thirds features landscape with large deer, a tented campground and several sailing vessels in waterway, some with fishermen; right quadrant features landscape with plants and large tree. All woven in shades of green, blue, gold, red and brown. Enclosed in a 1-1/4" wide green border. 51 1/2" x 39 1/4". French or Flemish, late 18th century. CONDITION: Likely cut down from a larger tapestry or tapestries. Reinforced with linen and cotton bands to back and newer green cotton liner with tabs for display. Green border replaced at right side and upper left. Some fading and small repairs. Overall good condition. [See more photos →]

Persian Kashan area mat rug depicting American eagle carrying flag with 48 stars, beige ground, dark blue and floral spray main border, secondary shades in red, blue and gold. Wool and cotton, 22" x 21". Central Persia, circa 1930. Provenance: a Middle Tennessee estate, by descent from Thomas G.B. Wheelock. Note: Thomas G.B. Wheelock was known as an astute collector of African Art and co-author of the book "Land of the Flying Masks: Art & Culture in Burkina Faso". He also inherited a sizeable collection of Asian, British, and military related antiques from his grandparents, Wall Street tycoon George Briggs Buchanan of New York, and William and Margaret Wheelock, who owned a Scottish manor home known as Bunker Hill. (Margaret Carmichael Wheelock was also a founding partner of the couture firm Farquharson & Wheelock in New York). See other related lots in this auction. CONDITION: Overall very good condition with wear to fringe and minor surface grime. Some curling at side borders and very minor red dye run, see upper left corner. [See more photos →]

Antique Turkish Oushak carpet, 11'6" x 10'2", late 19th century, wool on cotton, center medallion of celadon green and ivory, salmon primary field with vine decoration, yellow spandrels, celadon green primary border, secondary colors of cream, yellows and pinks. Turkish, late 19th century. Provenance: Atlanta, GA collection. CONDITION: General wear. One knot loose near center medallion. 1 1/4" x 1 1/2" surface stain inside green border near one corner. [See more photos →]

Caucasus area rug, possibly Kazak, 4'7" x 3'7", wool on wool, dark blue ground, 4 lozenge medallions with animal and arrow images, main border with leaves and figures, secondary colors of blues, red, cream, yellow, brown and black. Early 20th century. Provenance: Brad Swanson Collection, Abingdon, VA. CONDITION: Overall low, even pile. Abrash. Some fraying at one end border and wear at sides. [See more photos →]

Bidjar area rug and two (2) Turkish saddle bags, 3 items total. 1st item: Bidjar area rug, 34" x 31", wool on cotton, turquoise center medallion, rust field with floral branches and palmettes, four corners of green, pink and cream floral, secondary colors of greens, orange, blues, pinks and brown. 1st quarter 20th century. 2nd item: Turkish double saddle bag with original Kilim woven backs, 35" x 18", fronts with center zig zag medallions. 1st half 20th century. 3rd item: Turkoman bag with linen backing, 27" x 15", front with double medallion, colors of russet, dark blue, cream, orange, green and black. 1st half 20th century. Provenance: Brad Swanson Collection, Abingdon, VA. CONDITION: 1st item: End borders worn. 2nd item: Very good condition. 3rd item: Some surface grime. Some fraying at corners. [See more photos →]

Antique Kazak rug, Caucasus, 7' x 4'8", wool on wool, russet field with secondary colors of blue, cream, gold, black and green. Early 20th century. Provenance: A private Alabama collection. CONDITION: Several repairs at borders, largest 18" long. Abrash. Uneven pile, some wear to warp and weft. Some corrosion to black wool. [See more photos →]

Antique Persian Sarouk area rug, 4'6" x 3'5", wool on cotton, navy field, center palmette medallion with palmette ends, large floral sprays at corners, three primary borders. Colors of blues, peach, mauve, ivory, purple and green. First half 20th century. Provenance: A private Alabama collection. CONDITION: Pile uneven with some reweaving. Sides rewoven and one side with two loose areas. Borders not complete but reinforced. [See more photos →]

Five (5) Chanel fashion items. 1st item: Chanel 100% silk cardigan/coat, with brushed gold tone metal logo on back. Geometric pattern in black and gold hues. New with tag. Size 44. 2nd item: Chanel cashmere blend cardigan, in colors of gray and cream with silver inerlocking CC button on pocket. Size 42. 3rd item: Chanel lined wool sailor style pants, with wide leg and 6 black interlocking CC buttons. Size 42 with 41 1/2" outseam. 4th item: Chanel black wool boucle suit with skirt, gold buttons with maker's mark en verso. Size 40. 5th item: Chanel silk scarf with camellia blooms on dark navy background, 34" square. Provenance: The Estate of Judith E. Crosland, Knoxville, TN. CONDITION: 1st item: Excellent condition. 2nd item: Shows some wear, in good condition. 3rd item: Very good condition. 4th item: Very good condition. 5th item: Small stain on background. Did not attempt to clean. [See more photos →]

Two (2) Michael Kors fashion items. 1st item: Tan and brown Michael Kors Safari leather embossed snake woven tote with silver tone hardware and dual shoulder straps. Hanging logo plate. 12" H x 19" W x 8" D. 2nd item: Michael Kors Italy woven linen top, new with tags. Size 12. Provenance: The Estate of Judith E. Crosland, Knoxville, TN. CONDITION: Both in excellent condition. [See more photos →]

Four (4) Vintage Chanel Fashion Items. 1st item: Chanel two-piece navy wool crepe suit with a lined skirt. Jacket with signature buttons on sleeves. 2nd item: Chanel black 100% wool pleated skirt with 12 signature buttons. 3rd item: Chanel black 100% silk maxi pencil skirt with hanging carwash panels. 4th item: Chanel floral silk scarf. 33 1/2" square. All clothing European size 42. Provenance: The Estate of Judith E. Crosland, Knoxville, TN. CONDITION: 1st – 3rd times: In very good condition. 4th item: Minor makeup stain. Did not attempt to clean. [See more photos →]

Three (3) Hermes Scarves/Pocket Squares. 1st item: Hermes Cotton Pareo/Wrap "Sun God", 60" x 70". 2nd & 3rd items: Two silk Hermes pocket squares, "The Art of Writing" & "Persona", 16" x 17". Provenance: The Estate of Judith E. Crosland, Knoxville, TN. CONDITION: Pareo/Wrap is in excellent condition. Both pocket squares have some staining along the folds. Did not attempt to clean. [See more photos →]

Two (2) Chanel designer items. 1st item: Chanel beige canvas wallet crossbody with chain link strap and gold hardware. #4715448. 8 1/4" W x 5" D. 2nd item: Chanel crochet "knitting" bag with circular base and double handles with Chanel logo on top. #5347419 and includes authentication card. 9 1/2" W x 10" H. Provenance: The Estate of Judith E. Crosland, Knoxville, TN. CONDITION: 1st item: Very good condition with light staining on interior. 2nd item: Very good condition with light wear. [See more photos →]

Two (2) Fendi envelope clutch/shoulder bags with straps, both embossed skin. Both with leather interior and a shoulder strap that can be tucked in or removed for use as a clutch. Largest – 8" H x 11 3/4" W x 1" D. Provenance: The Estate of Judith E. Crosland, Knoxville, TN. CONDITION: Both in very good condition, with slight scratching to interior. [See more photos →]

Chanel black caviar wallet/crossbody bag with gold tone hardware, featuring large stitched CC logo on front with long chain link and leather strap. #5035586. 7 5/8" W x 5" H. Provenance: The Estate of Judith E. Crosland, Knoxville, TN. CONDITION: Very good to excellent condition with no visible marks. [See more photos →]